We woke up October 18th, 2017 in Saint John, NB and headed to the St. Martins Sea Caves. The tide was very high so we decided to come back when we could walk the sea floor. Instead, we drove along a beautiful scenic road called the Fundy Trail Parkway to see the coastline.
We continued on the Fundy Trail Parkway to the mouth of the Big Salmon River to visit the Interpretive Centre. There’s a short video about the history of the logging and shipbuilding community that existed here in the 18th century. We walked the suspension bridge nearby and did some shorter hikes as we wanted to go back to the St. Martin Sea Caves at low tide.
Fundy National Park
After some fun exploring the sea caves, we headed to claim our campground at Fundy National Park, buy firewood, and do some laundry (finally!). That evening, we shared a fire with two Germans who were also driving across the country but in the opposite direction and living in their van. They were adamant that we should go to Berlin and skip Frankfurt if we were ever to visit Germany. We exchanged stories about our journey so far and places to travel to. For the first time, we noticed the clear night sky above us and how close the stars seemed to be.
The next morning, we cooked oatmeal for breakfast and packed a simple lunch of cucumber, tomatoes, hummus, apples, cheese and bread for our long day of hiking.
After our first hike of the day, we drove to Buddha Bear Coffee Roaster and Holy Whale Brewing Co. in Alma, NB to enjoy a coffee and warm up indoors. We continued onto some shorter hikes, Caribou Plain Trail, Tracy Lake Trail, and took in sunset views at Point Wolfe Beach.
The next day, we woke up at 6:30am on October 20th, 2017 to begin our drive to Hopewell Rocks so that we could catch the scenery at low tide. We stopped by An Octopus’ Garden Cafe to get a coffee and were hypnotized by the warm tray of cookies that had just come out of the oven. We bought a peanut butter chocolate cookie that was so delicious we even forgot it was gluten free.
Oliver’s German Bakery
About a 15 minute drive North from Hopewell Rocks is Oliver’s German Bakery in Hillsborough, NB. It came up on a google search because we were out of fresh bread (oh no!). After leaving Québec, we hadn’t come across any good sourdough bread so I was not expecting much. But boy, were we surprised and happy to discover this place. It’s a small, family run bakery using all organic flour, some of which is milled on-site. We happily stocked up on a spelt and kamut loaf, 100% rye loaf, fresh spätzle, and their popular rhubarb square. The rhubarb square was the most memorable ‘cake’ I had on this trip. It consisted of a whole grain pound cake base, pastry cream, roasted rhubarb from their backyard, and a generous buttery crumb topping.
With our pantry loaded, we were ready to cross The Confederation Bridge to Prince Edward Island!